Doyle Collection Careers

48 Hours in Cork

Louise O'Neill holding an umbrella by the sea on a rainy day during a 48-hour West Cork experience.

Introducing: Louise O’Neill

My name is Louise O’Neill and I’m an author, former columnist with De Paper, and most importantly, a native of Clonakilty. Having grown up in West Cork and subsequently going to Dublin for university, I actually spent very little time in Cork city when I was younger. As an adult, I have tried to rectify that, making the most of the excellent food, arts scene, and shopping the city has to offer. Now, whenever friends are coming to the Real Capital (all Cork people must refer to it as such, it’s the law), I always recommend they split their time between here and the countryside, to really soak up everything this county does so well. This is the itinerary I would give to a tourist coming to Cork for the first time – you’re in for a treat.

Louise O'Neill looking at skincare products on a shelf inside the KINS space at The River Lee hotel before a skin treatment.

Skin Deep

I love The River Lee hotel for many reasons – its excellent breakfast, how quiet and peaceful the rooms are, the chic décor – but perhaps most of all, I love the hotel car park. Worrying about where to park is a very culchie concern, I admit, but I am who I am. I leave my bags in my gorgeous suite and I head to KINS, the facial treatment suite at the hotel. After a misspent youth, I have very few vices these days. I don’t drink alcohol or coffee, I don’t smoke, I eat well etc. It’s tedious, truly. Instead, I have developed an obsession with skincare – it’s basically my favourite hobby now – and love any opportunity to share/off my knowledge. The facialist at KINS was gracious enough to listen to my ramblings and she was also a magician; my skin can be reactive at the best of times but when I left after my treatment, it was glowing and clear and calm.

Standing by the River Lee after leaving her hotel, Louise prepares to discover the highlights of West Cork

The Age of Exploration

It's time to explore the city. I hit all the old favourites – a quick browse in The English Market, I wander around the Crawford Art Gallery, and I climb the hill to Shandon to ring the bells at St Anne’s Church because why the hell not – and then I go to my favourite boutique in the city, Samui. I’ve been coming in here for years (mostly just to look, if my accountant is reading this!! I swear!), and it’s an incredibly well curated collection of designer clothes. Clodagh, the owner, is one of the best dressed women in Cork. I want to be her when I grow up, etc.

For dinner, I would recommend either The Glass Curtain or Goldie. Tonight, I’m in the mood for excellent seafood so I’ve decided to treat myself to dinner at Goldie. “Don’t gorge on the snacks, don’t gorge on the snacks,” I whisper to myself as I walk in and then promptly… gorge on the snacks. It’s not my fault! They’re irresistible and I am only human.

I walk back to The River Lee – it is so conveniently located! – and the rooms are so quiet, I feel like I back in the countryside. The highest compliment I could give a hotel.

Louise enjoys a quiet suite moment at The River Lee hotel, sipping coffee by the window in a red pyjama set as the city wakes up outside.

Suite Moments

As I stare at the menu, wondering what to order for breakfast, I wish that I had brought a friend with me. Mostly because I love to get pancakes “for the table”, by which I mean, “as a little treat for me”, but I can’t justify the food waste when I’m alone. Instead, I do what any sensible woman must do: I prioritise protein. Fun fact – if you’re a woman over the age of 35 and you’re not hitting your protein goals every day, the police will round you up and flog you to death. Luckily, with the eggs royale delivered straight to my suite, I shall escape such a fate today.

Into the Ocean I Go

I hop in my car and drive down to my beloved west Cork. First stop is Inchydoney Beach. My family lived in a little house right by the beach until I was four years old, and it’s still my favourite place in the whole world. I take my dog here maybe four times a week, and he scampers around the dunes to his heart’s content. Afterwards, I take a… refreshing dip in the sea. How refreshing depends on the season, but I do swim all year-round. It’s good for the soul!

After I scramble into my dry-robe in an attempt to warm off, I stop off at the Model Railway Village on my drive back into Clonakilty. I used to work here as a teenager and I sometimes pop my head in to say hello, just to ensure it isn’t falling apart in my absence. For lunch, I usually go to Bert’s, Gearóidín’s, or Scannells, and today I have a yearning for the prawn and feta cheese salad from Scannells. Does it have enough protein, I hear you ask? Who knows?! Not me!

Louise stands outside M.J. O'Neill & Sons, chatting and smiling in front of her family's butcher shop, which has been a fixture on the main street since 1919.

Homestead

My parents own MJ O’Neill’s Butcher shop on the main street – it’s been in my family since 1919. I call in to annoy my dad, and then ask him for a ring of his handmade black pudding and these delicious honey and mustard sausages he makes. “Put it on my tab,” I say airily. That tab is 40 years old, it’s never getting paid at this stage.

After browsing boutiques including Options Boutique, White Fawn, and Susu’s—where she once found her perfect wedding guest dress—Louise meets a friend for tea in DeBarra’s, sitting inside and gazing at the pub’s legendary walls of posters and rock history.

A Local Icon

Then I saunter across to Options Boutique, White Fawn, and I end up in Susu’s. When my sister was getting married in 2023, I tried to find an outfit in every shop and online retailer in the world, but it was in Susu’s that I finally found the perfect dress. After that, I meet a friend for a quick cup of tea in DeBarra’s. DeBarra’s is a pub and folk club, and it is honestly iconic. Some of the best acts in the world have performed here and I could spend hours looking at all the rock memorabilia and posters living the walls.

Louise enjoys an evening at The River Grill in The River Lee hotel, drinking a cocktail and settling in for dinner in a relaxed, social setting.

The Only Club in Town

It's back to The River Lee! I often meet friends from the city for dinner at The Grill Room because a) the great food and b) as mentioned before, the parking!! My kingdom for good parking. I really appreciate a bar that has decent non-alcoholic cocktails – do NOT offer me a Shirley Temple at my big age, I beg you – and The River Club has a great list. I ask for the Royal Spritz and it is delicious. For dinner, I get the scallop crudo to start, the miso glazed cod as my main course, and I, of course, save room for dessert. (Maybe I do have some vices after all)

Louise stands inside the Glucksman Gallery at UCC, looking at artworks during a morning visit.

That’s Dr O’Neill to you

After another delicious breakfast the following moring, I head to UCC for a quick stroll. I am the only member of my family not to attend university here, so I was thrilled when they gave me an honorary doctorate in 2022. Finally, I am part of the club! I stumble across the Glucksman, a gallery I very much enjoy. The concrete and glass building is so pretty, and they usually have interesting exhibitions inside. I grab a takeaway peppermint tea from their café and walk back to – where else – the car park, before hitting the road back to Clonakilty.

Louise walks into The River Club in Cork, arriving for a relaxed dinner with friends in a stylish restaurant setting.

That’s Cork, like.

And there you have it! No shade to the other curators but surely this is the best guide yet?! City and countryside, all wrapped up in one perfect weekend. That’s Cork, like.